Here is the first image from a stack of thirty-two consecutive exposures. Since the noise pattern varies from photo to photo, the noise gets smoothed out, but you don't lose fine detail the way you can with noise reduction software. How this works, when you do it right, what the photos have in common is maximized and what is different is minimized. Now merge pairs of these images, and so on until you have one, final image. You don't have to save the changes.ħ) Continue to merge pairs of images until you have half as many images as you started with. You now have an image that has all the shared detail and 50% of the noise of each root image.Ħ) Close the image you copied from. If all your images are the same size and orientation, you won't need to fudge the alignment.Ĥ) Change the new layer's opacity to 50%.ĥ) Flatten the image. I use Photoshop Elements 5.ģ) Select one image and paste it as a new layer into another image. 4, 8, 16, 32, etc).Ģ) Open all the images in your editing software.
More photos are better, especially in powers of 2 ( i.e. You want them to be as close to identical as possible, so a tripod is critical.
The method I use is fairly simple (taken from this website, but a bit simpler).ġ) Take the photos. Objects that are dim or barely discernable in individual images become much brighter if enough exposures are added together."ĭoes anyone have suggestions for doing this in PSE? By stacking multiple exposures on top of each other, the brightness (or intensity) of faint objects is increased in the final output image. "Traditional "image stacking" has long been used by astronomers to take pictures of very faint objects. From the website for the "Image Stacker" software:
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